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Flying into Iceland, I dreamed of out of this world landscapes, stories of elves, and horses with fluffy manes. Much to my pleasure, all of these things can be found in Iceland. My first day held excitement and a sense of adventure. Fighting through the exhaustion of an overnight flight, I walked up craggy cliffs, through geothermal fields, and between two continents.
If you are flying to Iceland, you are most likely landing in the city of Keflavík on the Reykjanes Peninsula. There are so many beautiful sights to see on this peninsula that will give you a feel for Icelandic terrain. If you are just doing a quick stop in Iceland for a few days, you should definitely explore the Reykjanes Peninsula and Reykjavik. If you can spare a full day, make sure that you see the Golden Circle as well.
The Reykjanes Peninsula
As you leave Keflavík and head towards Reykjavik on road 41, hang a right onto 44 to see some lovely coastline, small towns, a continental divide, and some geothermal fields. All of these things are within an hours drive of the airport.
The Bridge Between Continents
Did you know that Iceland technically sits on two continents? While Iceland is a European country, the island is split by the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. As you drive along road 44 (which turns into 425), you will see a great fissure in the ground. Turn left and park to cross the bridge between America and Europe.
This major plate boundary known as the Mid-Atlantic Ridge shows how the two plates are slowly but surely drifting apart. A small pedestrian footbridge (Lief the Lucky’s Bridge) connects the two sides of the divide and symbolizes the connection between Europe and North America.
While you are here, you can cross the road and head towards the ocean to see some of Iceland’s iconic black sand and sea cliffs. It is a bit of a hike, so if the weather isn’t good for that, keep on going and you can get a bit closer to those waves.
Valahnúkamöl
This ridge located right on the coast is where I fell in love with Iceland for the first time. When the sun shines over the water and the waves crash against the cliffs, you can’t help but be mesmerized.
We discovered this place by accident by following roads towards the Reykjanes Lighthouse. Take the road past the lighthouse and park to walk over to the ridge. This is an excellent place for photography, bird watching, or reading a book on a nice day.
Gunnhuver Mud Pools and Steam Vents
As you are leaving Valahnúkamöl, take a right when the road ends and you will find Gunnhuver. This geothermal area is named after a ghost who was laid to rest here.
The woman, Gunna hated the local sheriff in life. When the sheriff was found dead the day after attending her funeral, the locals suspected that she had not truly been laid to rest. A priest was convinced to take care of the vengeful ghost, and so he made a rope that would take her to her final resting place. That place is Gunnhuver, as she was pulled into the hot springs and never heard from again.
Gunnhuver has become a bit more dangerous due to splashing boiling mud and hot steam onto viewing platforms. If you visit, be cognizant and follow the marked paths. Safety first!
Brimketill, or Oddnýjarlaug
The current name, Brimketill translates to “White Cauldron”. As cool as that name is, the historical name, Oddnýjarlaug, or Oddný’s Pool has a better origin.
The story goes like this: Oddný the troll went out one night to fetch a whale carcass near Brimketill. On her way home, she decided to rest and have a bath in the pool at Brimketill. She spent a bit too much time in the baths, however, and when she left to go home she got caught by the sun and turned to stone. (It is common knowledge that trolls turn to stone when exposed to the sun).
For a long time, a tall pinnacle graced the coast and was said to be Oddný’s frozen figure. However, it has been washed away by the ocean. Now you can view Oddný’s pool at Brimketill and gaze over the ocean as you listen to the waves crash and fill the pools with white sea foam.
Reykjavik
Reykjavik is the largest city in Iceland with a population of ~123,000 people. This seems very small to those of us who live in heavily populated places. Though Reykjavik is still clearly a city with a natural charm that makes you feel right at home.
There are many iconic places to visit in Reykjavik and they are all worth seeing in my opinion. Take your time and explore and you never know what you may find.
The Sun Voyager
Perhaps the most iconic spot in Iceland. Every Instagrammer who has been to Iceland will likely post this photo at some point. The Sun Voyager sits on the path that leads along the sea and the edge of the city. If you walk this path, you will find several of Iceland’s iconic sights, including the Harpa.
The Sun Voyager was sculpted by the artist Jon Gunnar Arnason in 1986. He won an outdoor sculpture contest which celebrated Reykjavik’s 200th anniversary. The idea came to him in a vision as he traveled in Finland. It was a surreal dream of his previous life and suggested a correlation between Iceland and Mongolia.
With a spiritual background, the Sun Voyager has many stories surrounding its creation. The sculpture is indeed beautiful, but its story is rich and fascinating. When you see it, consider what the sculptor must have been thinking as he brought his vision to life.
Hallgrímskirkja
This imposing structure stands in the middle of Reykjavik at an impressive 74.5 meters (~245 feet). This Lutheran church is one of the tallest buildings in the country, and from the top, you can see an amazing view of the city (or so I hear, I was too late to go inside).
The construction of this behemoth concluded in 1986. Expect to see plenty of people in the courtyard before the church. This landmark is quite popular.
Standing in front of the church is a statue of the ever famous Lief Erikson. This Viking explorer of Iceland was the first European to discover America, prior to Christopher Columbus by roughly 500 years.
Grótta
At the westernmost end of Reykjavik you will find Grótta, a small islet that is home to a lighthouse. This is technically in the small township of Seltjarnarnes.
You can walk out to the lighthouse during a small window of time between high and low tide each day. If you decide to visit the lighthouse, make sure that you don’t get stuck. Rumor has it that this is a great place to view the Northern Lights if you can’t make it out of the city.
You can also walk along the beach and look back towards Reykjavik from a quiet and peaceful place. When I visited, it seemed like a refuge from the city. Neighborhoods with pleasant houses sit nearby and it just felt like an easy place to call home.
Perlan – The Wonders of Iceland
The glass dome atop Perlan sticks out as a marvel as you drive toward Öskjuhlíð. This magnificent building atop a hill holds a museum and other attractions that are a great place to experience Iceland, especially if you cannot make it far out of the city.
Perlan is home to a museum that brings together some of the best exhibits to showcase Iceland’s unique nature. You can enter the building and peruse some parts for free, but there is a fee to see the museum portion and planetarium shows.
The upper level holds a restaurant and cafe with a view of the city, and you can even go out on the terrace for a 360-degree view of Reykjavik.
Entrance to the Wonders of Iceland is 3900 ISK for adults, and 4500 ISK for the museum and planetarium show Árora.
Nautholsvik Geothermal Beach
A 15-minute walk down from Perlan through Öskjuhlíð will take you to Nautholsvik Geothermal Beach. This golden sand beach opened in 2001 much to the delight of locals.
This is a popular place for sea-swimming with the hot tubs and steam baths so close by. Cold water swimming is a past time in Iceland as crazy as that might sound. The water in this lagoon is actually a bit warmer than expected at 15-19 degrees Celcius in the summer months.
Bathing here is free in the summer and a mere 100 ISK in the winter.
Laugavegur
Historically, Laugavegur is a street that was used by women who were walking to hot springs to do their laundry. The name loosely translates to “Water Road”. Nowadays, Laugavegur is a vibrant street with shops, restaurants, museums, clubs, and more.
I am not one for clubbing when I travel, but the venues in Reykjavik are certainly tempting. Lebowski Bar, anyone?
If you want to see just how eclectic and artsy Iceland can be, take a quick jaunt down Laugavegur. You could easily spend an afternoon wandering through shops.
Other Places to See in this Region
While I would have loved to see everything in this part of Iceland, alas, I had not the time. There is so much more here I would like to see, so I will share some of the other places that I found when I researched the area.
- The Blue Lagoon: This popular lagoon is a mere 20 minutes from the airport, making it a popular place for those with long layovers to take a quick break. If you are planning a visit, consult this comprehensive guide for the Blue Lagoon Spa.
- Reykjanesfólkvangur: This nature preserve sits to the east of Reykjavik and is ideal for scenic hikes and a good dose of nature. Expect more natural hot springs, volcanos, and sea cliffs.
- Hafnarfjörður: We did not take the time to explore the third largest city of Iceland which sits just south of Reykjavik. This is a port town, so seek out fresh seafood.
- Museums: I love museums, but I sadly did not get to visit many. Some to look for include: The National Museum of Iceland, The Iceland Phallological Museum, Saga Museum, Reykjavik Art Museum, and many more.
Just Keep Exploring
Iceland is a place where the more you explore and go off track, the more amazing things you will find. That being said, because Iceland has done such an amazing job preserving its nature, we are tasked with keeping it as pure and untouched as possible.
Humans have a major impact on nature whether we like it or not. If we continuously trod on and touch a place it will surely change over time, and probably not for the better. So while you are in Iceland, respect the nature, listen to the signs that tell you not to go somewhere, and don’t sit on an iceberg and float out to sea.
When you travel, do you try to leave little behind? I like to leave a very small or no trace at all. I try to be quiet and respectful of the world as I travel through it. Keep this in mind when you visit Iceland, and you will enjoy it even more. I promise.
If you are planning a trip around the Ring Road, you can check out my full driving route here.
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I love this post and how much history and tales you added into it. Really well done, and your pictures are truly stunning.
Slowly, I am working on a small Reykjavik post (just the inner city), but I need to sort through my pictures. You guys got to see SO much and definitely more than we did with the extra days.
Ok, sooooo I am thrilled you posted the Perlan. I went to the Perlan, and I had stellar views of it from hotels and such. BUT, I had no idea it looked like this from the ground. When you drive in, you only see the dome cylinder.
I also loved the Sun Voyager. Not going to lie: A part of me thought, WTF is this tourist, IG gimmick…but like you, I read up on it. Very neat and it does have a stunning backdrop. Glad I did not skip out.
Can we go back soon?
Thank you so much! I am glad that you enjoyed the post. It means a lot!
We saw a LOT but there is so much that we didn’t see! We need to go back. I’m thinking summer. Perhaps 2020? Let’s go!
I was the same way with the Sun Voyager! Knowing some background really helps me to appreciate a place more. Especially a place that is so popular on social media!