Of all of the adventures that I had in Japan, the one in Koyasan was the most unique. The trek from Kyoto to Koyasan is both beautiful and intriguing. Upon entering the cable car to take us up Mount Koya, I felt a building excitement. Gazing out into the mountains and small towns as we ascended into Koyasan, I was filled with joy at the new experience I was about to have. I was even able to overlook the concerning loud clacking sound that the cable car made as we moved towards Koyasan.
Once we alighted in Koyasan, we were instructed on how to take the bus through the town to find our own shukubo or temple lodging. Koyasan is a temple town that was founded by the well known Buddhist monk Kobo Daishi. This town, nestled in the wooded mountaintop of Koya, has a quiet beauty that promotes a curious calm. Upon arrival at our shukubo, we were welcomed and shown to our room. Each shukubo has individual rooms, a bathing room for women and men, a dining area, and a temple for worship every morning. Our room had tatami mat floors and was small but comfortable.
The Dai Garan Complex
Konpon Daito
Before dinner, we decided to explore the town a bit. The Garan, Koyasan’s central temple complex, was just a short walk from our shukubo. The Konpon Daito Pagoda stands tall and is the first thing to catch my eye. The Pagoda contains a massive statue of Dainichi Nyorai, the Cosmic Buddha, in its center. This statue is surrounded by other statues and paintings on pillars that make up a three-dimensional mandala, a metaphysical map of the cosmos. The Cosmic Buddha is the central Buddha in Shingon Buddhism, the religion created by Kobo Daishi. As you walk through the pagoda, notice the little intricacies of the decor.
Kondo Hall
After appreciating Konpon Daito, we next visited Kondo Hall. This large wooden temple hosts major Buddhist ceremonies. There are around twenty temples and pagodas within the Garan Complex. Striding through the complex, I am overtaken by a curiosity about Shingon Buddhism and what it means. The Chumon Gate is the central gate to the Garan Complex. Its massive opening is flanked by statues of Jigokuten, Tamonten, Komokuten, and Zochoten on either side. These Buddhist deity statues are intricate if not slightly intimidating. They protect the entrance to the Dai Garan.
Great Bell of Daito
Another notable element of the Garan is the large bell that you will see near Konpon Daito and Kondo Hall. The Great Bell of Daito was completed by Kobo Daishi’s successor after Kobo entered an eternal state of meditation. The bell rings 5 times a day starting at 4 am and ending at 11 pm.
Sanko no Matsu
Another notable landmark, the Sanko no Matsu is a pine tree that sits between Kondo Hall and Konpon Daito. According to legend, When Kobo Daishi was preparing to leave China to return to Japan, he threw a three-pointed vajra toward the east praying that it would lead him to where he should start his monastery in Japan. It is said that he discovered the vajra lodged in this very pine tree in Koyasan 10 years later. This particular type of pine tree has three needles rather than two, resembling a three-pointed vajra. It is a holy spot in Koyasan.
Daimon Gate
Once we had sufficiently explored the Garan Complex, we decided to stroll up to the official entrance of Koyasan. The entrance of Koyasan is marked by the Daimon Gate, a sacred structure that protects the city. The statues inside the gate, Kongo-Rikishi are guardian deities that watch over the city of Koyasan. These are some of the largest statues in Japan.
The walk up to the Daimon Gate is a bit far, but it is very doable. I enjoyed the walk as it takes you past the temples and you get to see some other residences in the town. To the left of the gate, there is a trail that leads into the mountain. The trail is a part of Koyasan Choishi Michi, a pilgrimage to Koyasan that ends at the Daimon Gate. Our curiosity led us up the trail a short way before we turned back as dinnertime was getting closer.
Temple Lodgings
Back at our shukubo, we were ushered into the dining area where we were served an impressive meal. All of the meals served in the shukubos are the diet of Buddhist monks, known as Shojin Ryori. The food is vegan, which is exciting for those with dietary restrictions. Even as a meat eater, I was super excited about the beautiful meal that was placed before me. Worry not meat lovers, the food is so good that you won’t miss meat for a day or two. Additionally, you can order hot or cold sake for an extra price. You can read more about Shojin Ryori here.
Your only option for a bath is a community bathing room, so I would suggest mentally preparing yourself for that if you are shy. I was lucky enough to only have one other person in the bathing room, and once she left I had it to myself. Make sure that you shower off before soaking in the large mineral bath in the middle of the room. After that, a good nights sleep was in order.
Prayers at Dawn
The next day was an experience that I will not soon forget. Before breakfast, bright and early, we meet in the temple with the other guests. The head monk of the temple recites his prayers and we all say our own during the ceremony. After the ceremony, the monk leads the guests through the temple to explain what each deity statue means and the different ceremonies that are performed. He went through the tour in both Japanese and English. The early morning ceremony is followed by another delicious meal consisting of more wonderful vegan fare. The experience of staying in a Buddhist temple and learning more about the Buddhist faith is one that I will never forget.
Okunoin
After breakfast, we packed up our things and stored them by the front desk, heading out to Okunoin, the largest cemetery in Japan. From our shukubo, we hopped on a bus to ride up to the start of Okunoin. Ichinohashi Bridge is the traditional entrance to the cemetery and is where we began our trek through one of the most sacred places in Japan. I have mentioned Kobo Daishi several times already. He is a well renowned Buddhist monk, who created his own sect of Buddhism in Japan known as Shingon Buddhism. His mausoleum is located in Okunoin, where he is believed to be resting in eternal slumber, awaiting Miroku Nyorai, the Buddha of the Future.
Walking through the cemetery is chilling and serene. The quiet that surrounds the place is comfortable and thought-provoking. You will pass by many gravesites of monks and feudal lords who wanted to be close to Kobo Daishi in death. Some of the more significant sites are marked, and others are less clear as to who is buried there. Also, you will notice small statues with hand knitted hats and aprons are scattered throughout Okunoin. I wondered about this while I was in Japan, and later found this article about what the clothing adorning these statues symbolized. It is a very interesting read.
The mausoleum of Kobo Daishi, also known as Kukai is located behind Torodo Hall, the hall of lamps, and the main hall of worship in Okunoin. The Hall is full of more than 10,000 lanterns that are constantly burning. At the mausoleum, we witnessed monks and pilgrims offering prayers to Kobo Daishi and chanting sutras. It is an amazing experience. Photography, food, and drink are not allowed after a certain point in the cemetery. Make sure to pay attention to the signs. Next time I visit Okunoin, I hope to join a tour at night!
Tokugawa-ke Reidai
After we thoroughly explored Okunoin, we walked through the town a bit towards our shukubo. Koyasan has lots of lovely shops and restaurants. We also visited the Tokugawa Mausolea of Tokugawa Ieyasu and Tokugawa Hidetada, both of whom were shogun. In fact, Hidetada was the son of Ieyasu. We were the only people at the Mausolea, so we got to appreciate them in silence. We did not dawdle for too long, however, because we had to make the trip back down the mountain to the big city of Osaka.
Koyasan is an amazing cultural experience that allowed me to really experience a different religion and culture. Regardless of your own beliefs, I think that it is important to take the opportunity to learn about things that you don’t understand. If you find yourself in Japan, I would highly recommend taking the journey to Koyasan. It is a truly wonderful experience.
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